What to do in Kandy

Honestly: I thought Kandy was a terrible city. Busy, chaotic, and not the kind of place you travel for. That is not a dig at Sri Lanka because the country is great, it just is not good at nice cities. Kandy confirms that. The reason you go anyway is the temple, the Ambuluwawa Tower outside the city and the fact that the train to Ella departs from here. Kandy Lake is also a nice spot to decompress.

With a bit of determination, everything fits into one day.

Temple of the Tooth

The Dalada Maligawa, or Temple of the Tooth, is the religious centre of Kandy and for many Buddhists one of the holiest sites in Sri Lanka. Inside sits the tooth of the Buddha, stored inside seven golden caskets nested inside each other. You do not actually see the tooth, but the temple around it is impressive enough not to skip.

Go during a Pooja if you can. The ceremonies are around 05:30, 09:30 and 18:30. The evening ceremony is the most special: drummers, burning oil lamps and an atmosphere you do not expect from a busy tourist city. Entrance is 2000 LKR.

Shoulders and knees covered, shoes handed in at a dedicated counter, white clothing is appreciated. That is it. No moaning about the rules; it is a sacred site and you are a guest. Bring thick socks because the stones get hot in the sun.

Two things that make it even more interesting: the tooth was smuggled into Sri Lanka from India in the 4th century, hidden in the hair of Princess Hemamala. And the legend goes that whoever possesses the tooth has the right to rule the land, which explains why the tooth always moved along with each new capital. Every year in July or August a replica is carried through the streets on a decorated elephant during the Esala Perahera. If you are there at that time: do not miss it.

Ambuluwawa Tower

Outside the city, about half an hour by tuk-tuk or taxi, lies Ambuluwawa Hill. You buy an entrance ticket for a few euros, walk up for about an hour and arrive at a tower that looks as if an architecture student took a solid dose of LSD and then produced a masterpiece. Spiral staircase, unique in Sri Lanka, and the view is great. The climb is not hard (I literally saw elderly people walking up) but it is a lot more pleasant than the heat of the city below.

Good break between the temple and the train.

Sleeping: White Rose Hostel

I stayed at White Rose Hostel, 300 metres from the train station. Not a social hostel in the sense that you automatically meet people, but the location more than makes up for it. Everything in the city is walkable, the train to Ella is practically at the door, and for the price it is simply solid. Do not expect a lively bar; do expect a decent bed and a proper base.

More hostels in Sri Lanka are in the overview of the best hostels in Sri Lanka.

Practical

The train from Kandy to Ella is one of the most beautiful train rides in Sri Lanka. Book in time; the good seats go fast. At the time of writing the full route was not always running due to maintenance work, so check the current status of the train journey before you book. Kandy is also a good place to get cash or exchange money before heading into the mountains.