Negombo, so what are you actually supposed to do here?

Let's be honest: nobody comes to Sri Lanka for Negombo. You are here because the airport is around the corner and after twelve hours of flying you have no appetite for the chaos of Colombo. That is fine. Negombo is the ideal place to acclimatise, drink your first Lion Beer and realise you are now genuinely sitting in the sweltering heat.

Stay one night, two at most, then move on to the real stuff.

Cruising the Dutch Canals

Negombo is called the "little Rome" of Sri Lanka because of its many churches and the canals the Dutch dug back in the day (apart from that it looks nothing like Rome). Those canals can still be explored by boat. I had half a day to kill and booked a boat trip through a local guy: +94 77 181 4208. A shared boat costs 5,000 LKR per person and he will pick you up too.

I found it genuinely entertaining and had a good laugh with the guide. You cruise past back gardens and under bridges. It is relaxed, he knows what he is talking about and adapts to your pace. Highly recommended.

The Fish Market (Lellama)

This is the biggest "attraction" in Negombo. Raw, busy, and it smells of fish and salt for miles around. Fun if you like markets. I skipped it. But since it keeps coming up in every bit of research I did, I will mention it.

If you want to go: go early, well before seven. That is when it is at its busiest and most interesting.

Afterwards you can chill on the beach for a bit. Not the most beautiful or cleanest stretch of sand, but if you are already there, why not.

Eating and drinking on Lewis Place

Lewis Place is the street where everything is. Most guesthouses are also in the nearby Jetwing area, so you do not even have to walk far.

• Jude Restaurant Go for the seafood. Fresh and good.
• Zen Cafe Good for breakfast or coffee.
• Tuk Tuk Wine and Dine Live music every evening. International menu, big portions, always lively. Good address if you want to linger a while.
• The TUSK Order the kottu chicken. No discussion.

Practical info: from the airport to Negombo

At the airport you get immediately swarmed by taxi drivers wanting to take you somewhere for a ridiculous price. Do not do it.

Download PickMe beforehand. That is the Uber of Sri Lanka (Uber exists too but is often more expensive). A tuk-tuk to Negombo via the app costs a fraction of what the drivers at the exit are asking. Expect 1,000 to 1,500 LKR.

Note: taxis are not allowed to stop everywhere. I had trouble with this. Two drivers called me in broken English to say I needed to come to a different spot, then cancelled on me, which was pretty annoying after a long flight. Follow the signs to the official taxi pick-up zone or ask at the information desk.

Also sort out a SIM card at the airport right away. Dialog has the best coverage. Without internet you are lost in Sri Lanka because you need PickMe constantly to avoid getting ripped off.