Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is an island roughly the size of Ireland, but with palm beaches, tea fields, jungle, ancient temples, surf breaks, elephants and leopards. On paper it makes no sense. In practice, it works.

In the morning you take the train through green hills, in the afternoon you're on safari with elephants, and in the evening you're sitting with your feet in the sand and a Lion beer in your hand. Everything is within driving distance. No ten-hour travel days. And when there is one, the journey itself is half the fun.

What you need to know before you go

Sri Lanka is cheap, but not as cheap as Thailand five years ago. Expect around €30–40 a day if you stay in hostels, eat local and use public transport. A tuk-tuk is not a taxi, it's a negotiation. The first price you hear is not the price you'll pay.

The people are friendly in a way that doesn't feel fake. You get invited for tea you don't really want but drink anyway. The rice is good. The curry is very spicy. The street dogs are sometimes less friendly than the people. A rabies vaccination isn't a bad idea.

Don't expect Swiss precision. Buses run on their own schedule, the hostel wifi works at half capacity, and it can rain for days on end depending on where you are and when you visit. That comes with the territory. If you can't handle that, book an all-inclusive.

How long do you need

Three weeks is enough to see the country without rushing through everything. Two weeks works too, but then you have to make choices. One week isn't enough unless you know exactly what you want. And even then.

A logical route for most people: land in Colombo, head to Kandy, take the train to Ella, make your way down to the south coast. Then fly back from Colombo or continue somewhere else. You don't need to figure out the route yourself: thousands of backpackers have already mapped it out. It works.

Below you'll find the guides and stories I've written from personal experience.

Sri Lanka: tips and stories