Hai Van Pass

I had done my research. Read several travel blogs; Top Gear even did a segment on it. "The most beautiful coastal road in the world." So I was fully hyped when I got on the motorbike in Hue.

It let me down. Not badly, but still. I think the Ha Giang Loop had spoiled me a bit with its views, and the Hai Van Pass simply could not compete. Or maybe I should have managed my expectations better (or maybe I am just being a whiner).

What is the Hai Van Pass?

The Hai Van Pass is a mountain road that runs along the coast from Hue to Da Nang, about 20 kilometres over the ridge separating the two cities. You can ride it yourself on a scooter. Because I am a bit of a chicken and do not fully trust Vietnamese traffic, I went with an easyrider. That is a local guide who takes you on the back of his bike.

How it went

The beginning was genuinely beautiful. Along the coast, a few good viewpoints, great weather. We stopped at a small waterfall (Suối Mơ) where we took a quick dip. With the sun on your face and the sea below you, there is not much to complain about.

ExpectationReality

Expectation

Reality

Then it got worse. What should have been the highlight of the route turned out to be a massive stretch of sand. A huge resort is being built on exactly the stretch of coast with the best views. That is a real shame. The guy running the cafe at the top of the pass was not happy about it either. His view is ruined, his customers have gone. The locals find it just as bad as the tourists.

Marble Mountain

After the pass we were taken to Marble Mountain, a cluster of rocky outcrops on the edge of Da Nang filled with marble sculptures and temples. Some of the statues were genuinely skillfully made. A nice extra stop and a good way to round off the day if you are continuing to Da Nang or Hoi An anyway.

Is it worth it?

If you have already done the Ha Giang Loop: no, skip it. That route is 100 times more impressive. Just take the faster inland road between Hue and Da Nang and use that time for something else.

If you have not done the Ha Giang Loop or you enjoy scenic rides: yes, it is definitely a fun day. Just know that it probably will not be the highlight of your Vietnam trip. Plan it as pleasant transport between two cities, not as the experience of a lifetime.