Things to do in Hue

Hue is the old imperial capital of Vietnam, sitting right in the middle of the country. Perfect stop between Hoi An and Phong Nha. Don't expect party beaches or endless nightlife: that's exactly why a lot of people skip it. And that's their loss, because if you're into culture, you really need to come here.

The Citadel

This is the reason buses full of tourists stop here, and for once that reason is justified. It's a massive walled complex in the middle of the city where the emperors of the Nguyễn dynasty lived. During the Vietnam War, a large part was unfortunately bombed flat, so you get beautifully restored gates and temples mixed with enormous empty fields where palaces once stood. What remains is impressive enough.

If you want good photos without the crowds, set your alarm early.

The imperial tombs

Scattered around the city, the tombs of the old emperors are hidden in the hills. Some are so large they feel more like summer palaces than burial sites. There are seven in total, but you really don't need to see them all: after the third one you start mixing them up.

I wrote a separate article about which imperial tombs of Hue are worth visiting and which you can skip. The short version: go to Tu Duc and Khai Dinh at minimum. Khai Dinh looks like an architect had stared at too many Gothic cathedrals and decided: let's do that but for Vietnamese emperors.

The abandoned water park

Ho Thuy Tien. For years the go-to secret tip in every backpacker guide, which of course means it's been anything but secret for a long time. It's an enormous water park with a giant stone dragon in the middle of a lake. The company went bankrupt before it was finished, the jungle moved in, and what's left is one of the strangest places I've come across in Vietnam.

These days there's just a man at the entrance collecting an entry fee. The mysterious vibe has worn off a little, but walking through an abandoned water park is still a weird and fun experience.

Forget pho, eat bun bo hue

All across Vietnam everyone dutifully orders pho. In Hue you order bun bo hue, and if you ask me it's secretly much better. Thick, round rice noodles in a spicy lemongrass broth with generous chunks of beef. Sometimes there's a pig's trotter in there. Leave it if that's a step too far — the rest of the soup is worth it.

It's the local pride. Order it at a local spot, not at the restaurant next to the Citadel with the English menu and photos on the wall. Support the locals.